My Obsession with Rain Jackets
There's something that feels so right about this style—rain or shine.
The saying may be “April showers bring May flowers,” but in New York—and much of the Northeast—it feels more like April chill brings May downpour. It has been raining non-stop!
Fortunately, it’s an excuse to explore my love of outerwear. (I recently wrote a piece about it.) I have been making the case for the duffle coat for some time, and, now that it’s spring, the style I am thinking about is the rain jacket, which is sometimes referred to as a windbreaker. (While the terms are often used interchangeably, there are a few subtle differences between the two, but for the sake of this piece, we’ll group them together.) So, why am I choosing a rain jacket over the usual trench-and-umbrella combo? It’s simple: It is more casual and less cumbersome than a trench, but still versatile enough to add a bit of nonchalant swagger to formal looks and a touch of suburban cool to casual ones. It’s practical enough to justify buying, and it feels different.
Like most of my favorite things, the origin of the rain jacket is utilitarian: as early as the 18th century, fishermen and sailors were waterproofing their garments by coating canvas or cotton with fish oil or wax to withstand the rough seas. Then in 1824, Charles Macintosh patented a method of sandwiching rubber between two layers of fabric, leading to the creation of the Mackintosh coat, which is still produced today. About 50 years later, Thomas Burberry (yes, that Burberry) introduced gabardine—a tightly woven, water-resistant, breathable fabric made from worsted wool or cotton. Unlike the Mackintosh, which was stiff and carried a chemical smell, Burberry’s gabardine allowed for better movement and comfort without the odor. By the mid-20th century, the introduction of synthetic materials like PVC and nylon made rain gear lighter and more versatile, opening the door to bright, playful, and expressive designs, which brings us to the modern rain jacket.
My personal infatuation with the rain jacket was inspired by Alex Mill’s Creative Director,
, who wrote a rather cheeky newsletter about what to wear when you love The Row but still have to ride the subway, featuring a photo of him in a yellow rain jacket, that’s a bit more muted than that typical bright yellow that we associate with the slickers worn by fishermen and the like. After reading his newsletter last April, I ran out and picked up the same jacket as well as a heather grey version, because I couldn’t decide between the sizes and figured I should get two that I could change depending on my mood, and, more importantly, my outfits.Fast forward to the Spring/Summer 2025 runways in September, and, much to my delight, there was a bounty of rainwear that made me feel justified in my purchase of those rain jackets. At Prada, bold yellow and orange nylon jackets were styled over party dresses, making the rain jacket feel less square and more like a statement. It also tied into a styling trick we saw across several brands that season, including Burberry, No.21, and Brandon Maxwell—something I like to call the "wrong jacket theory." (Building on
’s “wrong shoe theory,” with the idea that contrast is what makes an outfit interesting.) For Fall/Winter 2025, Dior introduced their own version: a deep navy raincoat with an oversized hood that managed to feel both elegant and utilitarian.Though I currently have three rain jackets at my disposal, I have an insatiable urge for more! When it comes to the jackets I’ve been adding to my Obsessions, I tend to fall into two very different camps. I love a classic silhouette like this one from Stella McCartney or this one from Ralph Lauren. They aren’t reinventing the wheel, but they have a kind of sporty, throw-it-on-with-anything quality that just works. On the other hand, I’m also pulled toward more experimental options. One of my favorites is this piece from Margiela, which is technically a rain vest. There’s also this sculptural one I’ve been eyeing, and I have to admit, the idea of running through a downpour in it sounds kind of exhilarating.
But you don’t have to wait for a downpour to wear one. During this transitional season, when anything goes, it’s kind of nice to throw on a lightweight jacket on a sunny day just because. And, at a time when runway trends are less about novelty and more about styling propositions, wearing a rain jacket over a frock feels right. The wrong jacket theory is all about how pushing against expectations can make something more interesting.
Of course, it’s also a practical piece of outerwear. (Or, at least that’s how you can justify it to yourself.)
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