[The RealGirl’s note: It’s finally getting warm outside, which is exactly why I am starting the search for next year’s winter coat now. Confused? Well, demand drops for winter coats as it gets warmer, so that means less competition and better deals. As for what I’m buying… I’m not sure yet, but writer Jalil Johnson makes a convincing case for the duffle coat. Start obsessing now and when you want one next winter: Don’t say I didn’t warn you. xoxo]
2024 was, undeniably, the year of the barn jacket. After Miuccia Prada included the style in the Prada Spring/Summer 2024 collection, brands at every price point reinterpreted the rustic staple for urbanites scouting out the latest dining spots. Yet, as with any trend that reaches peak saturation, after a meteoric rise comes a fall. And we’re all left asking: What comes next? At the end of December, I put forth a potential successor—the duffle coat (spelled interchangeably as "duffle" or "duffel"). It’s a worthy heir to the barn jacket: both styles reflect a broader fascination with elevating traditionally utilitarian pieces, the enduring influence of preppy style, and the rise of the fisherman aesthetic (think: Breton stripes, water-resistant fabrics, and, of course, boat shoes).
The duffle coat’s origins trace back to two distinct narratives. One credits the Belgian town of Duffel, where the thick, coarse wool fabric used to make the coats was produced and later found its way into naval uniforms. The other attributes the coat’s creation to John Partridge in 1850, whose design caught the attention of British Royal Navy officers, leading to its adoption as standard-issue outerwear. After World War II, brands like Gloverall helped transition the duffle coat into civilian wardrobes, cementing its place in menswear history. The coat even found its way into the wardrobes of luminaries like Jean Cocteau and Paddington Bear.
Despite its long-standing presence, the duffle coat’s core silhouette and defining features—a hood, toggle closures, throat strap, patch pockets, and a roomy fit (originally designed to accommodate uniforms underneath)—have remained largely unchanged. Some versions have been slimmed down for a sharper, more tailored look, while others—like the Lemaire duffle coat that first ignited my fascination with this silhouette—omit the hood entirely.
Even before I became the proud owner of two (soon to be three—I may or may not have placed an order on The RealReal while writing this piece, all in the name of research!) duffle coats, designers were starting to offer more distinct takes on the style.
The Prada Effect
Prada, which is often the unspoken trendsetter that others inevitably follow, notably revisited the silhouette for their Fall/Winter 2023 collection. For that runway show—the season before their collection that propelled the barn jacket into ubiquity—Prada explored themes of uniforms, incorporating military-inspired elements in a few looks. Among them was a toggle coat, which co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined with a dramatic cocoon-like shape, shifting the volume toward the back for a striking effect.
Fast forward two seasons and Altuzarra’s 15th-anniversary collection featured a delicious mustard-colored version, while Burberry, under the direction of Daniel Lee, introduced one with a furry, lined hood and leather-bound toggles and emerging brand Magliano presented a muted gray iteration with a quilted lining and a softly rounded silhouette. Though the Fall 2025 season is still unfolding, duffle coats have already made notable appearances. Men’s Fashion Week saw versions from Hermès and Sacai, while at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Skall Studio offered its own perspective on the style. Most recently, during New York Fashion Week, Coach showcased a streamlined duffle, pairing it with wide, almost '70s-inspired flared trousers. However, as with most things in fashion, you don’t have to wait for these styles to hit stores—there are already plenty of options available on The RealReal. Take, for example, this vibrant plaid version from Sofie D’Hoore, a cape-inspired take on the silhouette from Derek Lam, or the timeless classics from Burberry and Polo Ralph Lauren. Happy hunting!
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