Key(word) Takeaways from New York Fashion Week
What I’m searching for on The RealReal after seeing the shows.
Dear Reader,
New York Fashion Week just wrapped, and we have much to discuss.
Let’s start with Calvin Klein, which hosted its first runway show since 2018 when Raf Simons was fired after just two short years at the brand. (RIP 205W39NYC.) Veronica Leoni, an Italian designer with previous experience at Jil Sander, Celine, and The Row, gave it her best shot last week. For inspiration, she turned to the archives, visiting Calvin Klein’s 5,000-plus-square-foot storage unit in Long Island City, according to the Times. (UM, HOW DO WE GET IN THERE?!?!) So, of course, the collection, which featured bags shaped like bottles of ck one perfume, sent me down a RealReal rabbit hole. I searched ‘Calvin Klein 1990’ and sorted by the color gray. I also searched ‘gray skirt suit’ and got some promising results. I’m not alone! Searches for ‘calvin klein’ already increased 56% in February, compared to the entire month of January. (Of course, that doesn’t compare to ‘flare jeans’, which saw an increase of 172%, or ‘celine flare jeans,’ which had a whopping increase in the same time period–thank you Kendrick.)
The revival of Calvin Klein further emphasized how lucky we are to have legends like Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui, Norma Kamali, and Michael Kors still showing in New York. At Jacobs’ show, he seemed to reference an iconic gray Fair Isle sweater from the Fall 2010 collection. (Add ‘Marc Jacobs 2010’ to the keywords list; if you find one, you win!) Kamali recently listed her archive on The RealReal, and you can find more if you click the ‘vintage’ tab after searching her name. It’s a total treasure trove, including lots of OMO-era pieces. (She left her husband and started her own line called OMO, which stands for On My Own, in 1978 as a symbol of her financial independence.) Meanwhile, Sui’s new “madcap heiress” collection made me want to find some fuzzy animal prints even more. Same for Kors.
The other big debut on the calendar was at Fforme, where Frances Howie replaced creative director Paul Helbers, who was also only at the brand for two years. (Sheesh!) I loved his soft tailoring and use of luxurious materials, which to me, were the epitome of “quiet luxury.” Thankfully, I can finally get his pieces at the right price, as a number of them hit The RealReal this month following the brand’s recent sample sale. (It can’t be a coincidence, right?)
In terms of trends, Sandy Liang gave us a new, more tech bro-y fleece jacket, reminding everyone that she was making the cozy material high-fashion long before new names like Rier and Colleen Allen came along. Both of which are somehow even more expensive than Liang’s original version, although just as covetable. FWIW there are no pieces from either of those brands on TRR–yet. But that doesn’t stop me from making a saved search, for when they eventually trickle in. (Also, how much does this Paco Rabanne jacket look like it could be Colleen Allen?)
While we’re talking outerwear, demand for a good leather jacket remains. For an oversize look, I’d recommend sizing up or searching in the men’s department. I found some good Coach ones if you’re looking for something longer, plus this one, this one, and this one too. Kallmeyer showed a blazer with this similar cut. Oh, and remember Frye??
In the accessories department, tassels are everywhere, and Khaite dared to double down on the newsboy cap, originally shown (backwards) by The Row for spring last year. I’m not sure I’m ready to adopt the accessory now… Or ever, but the brand’s show, as well as that of Altuzarra, did inspire me to look for some vintage hats. Omg look at this John Galliano visor… I almost didn’t share it with you!!!
Last but not least, are you partaking in the Tory Burch-aissance? Personally, I think the direction the brand is going in is great, and the runway shows are fun, but are you buying it? Which pieces? Leave your notes in the comments, I’m curious. In terms of vintage, these shoes are freaky as hell but I could name maybe three people that could pull them off today.
Speaking of freaky, WHO bought this Thom Browne bag??? You lucky pig.
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That’s a wrap on NYFW. I’ll be back soon to discuss the shows in London, Milan, and Paris.
xoxo
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KEYWORD TAKEAWAYS:
Calvin Klein 1990
Gray skirt suit
Marc Jacobs 2010
OMO Norma Kamali
Anna Sui animal print
Michael Kors animal print
Fforme
Sandy Liang jacket
Leather bomber jacket
Tassels
Vintage hat
Love the Ralph Lauren leather jacket.